It’s time to end this blog.
I’m not happy with how it’s developing. I simply don’t have time to live in Kyrgyzstan and to update the blog regularly. Worse, what I write isn’t even particularly interesting. I’ve read what I wrote in the last post: I don’t like it and so I’ve removed it.
It’s easy to say that I should just select the highlights and skip the mundane events but it’s the day-to-day things which show what I’m experiencing here. Learning about and adapting to life in a different culture is what’s interesting for me and, I thought, writing about this makes my blog different from others: there are plenty of other blogs where people just publish their photos with a three-word caption and write about what they think are the exciting parts of their holidays. The entertaining events I’ve experienced here are only interesting as part of the whole; when taken out of context, they just don’t mean anything.
I’ve now had too many complaints that the blog is becoming boring. I don’t know how to make it amusing or interesting without giving the detail but it’s the detail that makes it boring. As someone who struggled to survive five years of engineering’s smothering greyness, accusations that I’ve been contaminated by the dull brown of Communism cut deep.
It will be good to return to the United Kingdom and its unique sense of humour after too long abroad.
Thank you for following this blog and for all the comments, especially Anita, Hana and Joris for helping bring this blog alive and often making me laugh out loud with what you’ve written. A memorial service featuring pints of cheap lager in a seedy Cardiff pub will be held to commiserate the apparent demise of Raw Bacon and Frogman.
This blog is now closed.
Sunday, October 29, 2006
Thursday, October 12, 2006
blogging break
I won't be online much for the next couple of weeks, so this blog may not be updated for a while. I'll try to write about grandmothers, fake passports, weddings, 'marketing', birthday kisses, horse-whispering and - my favourite - dog fat, when I have time.
Tuesday, October 10, 2006
Day 18 – nothing goes according to plan.
A great start to the week.
I woke up early for my Russian lesson, knowing deep down that something was going to go wrong. Would Ulan phone me and ask me to cover some classes, or would Olga phone to cancel the lesson?
The phone rang just before eight: it was Ulan. “Ben, I need you to come in. Danny is sick.” I explained that I couldn’t work, because I had a Russian lesson. This wasn’t the answer he wanted to hear. He had a class sitting there without a teacher for 20 minutes already. In the end I gave him the phone number of Olga and told him to sort it out with her while I had a shower.
He phoned back almost immediately to tell me he’d spoken to Olga, and she was going to let him know. I still had serious doubts about my ability to learn Russian in German if neither of us spoke German that well.
The phone rang again. This time it was Olga. Or was it? She sounded different. She asked me if I could manage a different time because 8.30 was no good for her. I was confused: surely Ulan had told her that he needed me to teach? I didn’t mention this, and suggested a later time. Ulan had assured me I only needed to cover one or two lessons this morning. That was ok for her. I asked for her phone number in case I needed to contact her again: it was completely different from the previous number she gave me. Aha! So this was a different person. Ulan then phoned again to make sure I was coming to school. Poor Bolek probably didn’t appreciate all these phone calls so early in the morning
I finally made it to school 45 minutes into the lesson. There were only three students left. After the lesson, still no sign of Danny. Where was the half-French Canadian? Nowhere to be found. Ulan told me he’d spoken to my other potential Russian teacher: her name was Dunya. Danny still wasn’t there, so I had to cover another lesson. Elementary Talking Club, again. The same topics, all over again: What did you do at the weekend? I stayed at home. What, all weekend? Yes. One problem is that for people here the weekend is only one day long. Most schools and universities are apparently open on Saturdays too.
Coaxing more out of them was hard work, but they seemed happy enough with it. “Walking with my friends” seems to be all anybody does here (though with the accent I asked at least four students before I realised that they were saying “walking” and not “working”.) Many of the girls dislike Sundays, because that’s when they have to clean their homes.
After the lesson, still no sign of Danny. Half-French Canadian swine. I’d give him a good kick in his derriere when I saw him. Ulan told me that he’d rearranged my Russian lesson again, this time for 11.40, and because he was suspicious about the Olga-Dunya double entity, he’d phoned both of them and told them to come to the school for an interview.
Lena arrived to talk to Ulan about me signing a contract finally. She left after half an hour, and still no contact had been signed. Next lesson: Elementary Talking Club. The same topics, all over again. I could hardly contain my excitement, but again the students seemed happy enough. We managed to talk for a good 10 minutes about kashka, most of which was spent with me trying to work out what on earth it is. Porridge, apparently. You try describing porridge to someone who doesn’t speak the same language as you and doesn’t even know the word ‘oats,’ and you’ll see how hard it is.
Next: my Russian lesson. Olga didn’t appear, but Dunya did and she seemed to know what she was doing. If I’d found three consecutive lessons of “What do you do in the morning” exciting, this was even more gripping: I didn’t progress beyond three-letter words until near the end of the lesson. “Who is this? This is Mama. Who is this? This is Papa.” But to be fair to Dunya, she seems to be making sure I know the basics in Russian, and I was surprised how thorough she was. Communicating in German wasn’t easy, but I managed to grasp the intricacies of Mama’s and Papa’s names. Russian is not an easy language and I still get confused by some of the letters, so a thorough grounding in the alphabet – both the printed and the hand-written forms – is no bad thing.
Lunch break: home, food, sleep. It’s just like being a student again. Today I didn’t have to teach Little Miss Sunshine, which was a relief.
The afternoon was long. It’s difficult to connect with students when you don’t have a regular timetable, and it’s difficult to prepare for each lesson. My least favourite class is still there at 3.00, and I’m still their least favourite teacher. Lessons from 7.40am till 10pm, with a Russian lesson and a bowl of pasta in between, make it a long day.
I woke up early for my Russian lesson, knowing deep down that something was going to go wrong. Would Ulan phone me and ask me to cover some classes, or would Olga phone to cancel the lesson?
The phone rang just before eight: it was Ulan. “Ben, I need you to come in. Danny is sick.” I explained that I couldn’t work, because I had a Russian lesson. This wasn’t the answer he wanted to hear. He had a class sitting there without a teacher for 20 minutes already. In the end I gave him the phone number of Olga and told him to sort it out with her while I had a shower.
He phoned back almost immediately to tell me he’d spoken to Olga, and she was going to let him know. I still had serious doubts about my ability to learn Russian in German if neither of us spoke German that well.
The phone rang again. This time it was Olga. Or was it? She sounded different. She asked me if I could manage a different time because 8.30 was no good for her. I was confused: surely Ulan had told her that he needed me to teach? I didn’t mention this, and suggested a later time. Ulan had assured me I only needed to cover one or two lessons this morning. That was ok for her. I asked for her phone number in case I needed to contact her again: it was completely different from the previous number she gave me. Aha! So this was a different person. Ulan then phoned again to make sure I was coming to school. Poor Bolek probably didn’t appreciate all these phone calls so early in the morning
I finally made it to school 45 minutes into the lesson. There were only three students left. After the lesson, still no sign of Danny. Where was the half-French Canadian? Nowhere to be found. Ulan told me he’d spoken to my other potential Russian teacher: her name was Dunya. Danny still wasn’t there, so I had to cover another lesson. Elementary Talking Club, again. The same topics, all over again: What did you do at the weekend? I stayed at home. What, all weekend? Yes. One problem is that for people here the weekend is only one day long. Most schools and universities are apparently open on Saturdays too.
Coaxing more out of them was hard work, but they seemed happy enough with it. “Walking with my friends” seems to be all anybody does here (though with the accent I asked at least four students before I realised that they were saying “walking” and not “working”.) Many of the girls dislike Sundays, because that’s when they have to clean their homes.
After the lesson, still no sign of Danny. Half-French Canadian swine. I’d give him a good kick in his derriere when I saw him. Ulan told me that he’d rearranged my Russian lesson again, this time for 11.40, and because he was suspicious about the Olga-Dunya double entity, he’d phoned both of them and told them to come to the school for an interview.
Lena arrived to talk to Ulan about me signing a contract finally. She left after half an hour, and still no contact had been signed. Next lesson: Elementary Talking Club. The same topics, all over again. I could hardly contain my excitement, but again the students seemed happy enough. We managed to talk for a good 10 minutes about kashka, most of which was spent with me trying to work out what on earth it is. Porridge, apparently. You try describing porridge to someone who doesn’t speak the same language as you and doesn’t even know the word ‘oats,’ and you’ll see how hard it is.
Next: my Russian lesson. Olga didn’t appear, but Dunya did and she seemed to know what she was doing. If I’d found three consecutive lessons of “What do you do in the morning” exciting, this was even more gripping: I didn’t progress beyond three-letter words until near the end of the lesson. “Who is this? This is Mama. Who is this? This is Papa.” But to be fair to Dunya, she seems to be making sure I know the basics in Russian, and I was surprised how thorough she was. Communicating in German wasn’t easy, but I managed to grasp the intricacies of Mama’s and Papa’s names. Russian is not an easy language and I still get confused by some of the letters, so a thorough grounding in the alphabet – both the printed and the hand-written forms – is no bad thing.
Lunch break: home, food, sleep. It’s just like being a student again. Today I didn’t have to teach Little Miss Sunshine, which was a relief.
The afternoon was long. It’s difficult to connect with students when you don’t have a regular timetable, and it’s difficult to prepare for each lesson. My least favourite class is still there at 3.00, and I’m still their least favourite teacher. Lessons from 7.40am till 10pm, with a Russian lesson and a bowl of pasta in between, make it a long day.
Monday, October 09, 2006
Day 17 - a lazy day
After the fun and games of last night, I didn't do much today. My ankle had swollen up even more in protest at yesterday's walk around Bishkek, so today was a day of rest. And after the mammoth post of Day 16, it's good that this one is so short.
Sunday, October 08, 2006
... and an educational evening.
At around 7-ish I finally found Ulan at the school. He had been busy, of course, but now he wanted to get some food with me. Instead of going to a restaurant as I’d expected, we went to the supermarket and stocked up on food. Then we went back to my flat where Ulan intended to instruct me in the art of Kyrgyz cooking. Although cooking is traditionally the woman’s role, a real Kyrgyz man should know how to do everything.
We were to cook ‘mini manty,’ or ‘pjelmeny’ (sp?) as they are known. For this we needed hot water, and so I filled the kettle. Ulan then explained that in Kyrgyzstan it’s important to fill the kettle right to the very top: a full kettle is an indication of a full and happy life. To me, a full kettle is one which is going to make the water spill over the top when it boils, getting hot water on the electrical contacts, which probably wasn’t a good idea for my Chinese-made kettle: maybe even the little orange light would stop working. But I decided it wasn’t worth arguing with Ulan, especially if it was just to point out a flaw in his national culture, so I let him fill the kettle to the brim. He did however congratulate me: "You chose a good kettle."
Another important thing in the Kyrgyz home is the knife: this should always be sharp, otherwise it brings shame to the home, especially to the man. My knife – I have just one – was sharp. The deep cut on my little finger from last week was proof of this. So far so good: my kettle was full and my knife was sharp.
Ulan asked me if I had bread; I did, but it turned out to be mouldy, and I was about to put it in the bin when I got my third lesson in Kyrgyz culture: bread is sacred. This is something I’m still not used to, but bread really is considered sacred here. If you can’t appreciate this fact, you’ll be really puzzled when I finally get round to posting about Kyrgyz wedding traditions. Just accept that bread is sacred to Kyrgyz, like cows are sacred to Hindus.
So I couldn’t put the bread in the bin, because it’s sacred. What should I do with it then? Well, you shouldn’t let it go bad in the first place: it’s sacred. Ulan likes to talk, and he has an interesting technique for ensuring that his speech is not interrupted: he asks (and answers) his own questions.
“Bread is sacred. Why? Because when you are hungry, it feeds you. When you have nothing else to eat, you can eat bread. When you have something else to eat, bread will fill your belly. So you can never throw it away. Why? Because bread is sacred.” I suppose it makes sense.
At this point he had to pop back to the school. I then noticed that the kettle had indeed boiled over and Ulan had made a half-hearted attempt to mop it up with the tea-towel before escaping and leaving the problem to me. I disconnected the kettle from the mains and began mopping up, before I realised that the kettle hadn't just boiled over, it was actually leaking. Chinese crap. How can they sell a kettle which isn't waterproof?
When he returned, Ulan soon had to make some phone calls (see? It’s good to have a phone) and left me chopping tomatoes and cucumbers. I then asked him about the strange jar I’d found in one of the cupboards when I’d moved in. It was half-filled with a strange grey substance, a little like dust, and the lid was sealed; I hadn’t risked opening it.
“It’s bread,” explained Ulan. The previous occupant of my flat hadn’t thrown away his breadcrumbs, he’d carefully put them in a jar and never thrown them away. Even when he moved out of the flat, he hadn’t thrown them away.
Then Ulan spotted the end of a roll in my bin. “Is that bread?” he asked, and fished it out of the bin and put it with my mouldy bread. Wondering what his reaction would be, I told him that the kettle leaked. Of course, he didn't say that he'd seen it overflowing and had tried to mop up the water before running away; instead, he agreed it was rather strange, and said: "You didn't choose a good kettle."
The pjelmeny were coming along nicely, the cucumbers and tomatoes had been turned into salad, fresh bread had been stolen from Bolek, a bottle of kymys was in the fridge, tea was brewing, and the tin of sprats opened. Everything was ready, except for one thing: Ulan had to go. “I’ll be back in five minutes. They need me at the school,” he explained.
Quite hungry by this time, I wasn’t too impressed. These were five Kyrgyz minutes and lasted about half an hour.
During this time I had a rather odd phone call. Somebody I didn’t know wanted to speak to me, but she couldn’t speak English. It turned out we could both speak some German, so we managed to communicate. She had been given my phone number by somebody. Who? Somebody I’d never heard of had given somebody else my phone number and now this person wanted to talk to me in faltering German. It took some time to work out that Lena had given her my number – she used a different version of Lena’s name and I had no idea who she was talking about.
Gradually it became clear that this was the girl Lena had found for me as a Russian teacher. Well, good, but it was going to be tough to learn Russian in German, especially as neither of us was fluent in German. We arranged to meet on Monday morning at 8.30.
Ulan returned, and finally we could eat. He’s a fast eater and we were soon finished. Then he suggested showing me Bishkek by night, so off we went.
I had imagined visiting a couple of bars, but instead we just walked around the centre. It was interesting though, especially as after the recent nocturnal attacks I probably wouldn’t have ventured into town alone at night. We did see some drunken violence but not much; it was more interesting to observe the villagers who had come to experience the bright city lights. Street-side stalls cater for their tastes: you can have your photo taken with a landmark in the background, a cheesy border or pattern added to the photo and then printed onto cheap photographic paper; you can pose beside a shiny German car and have your photo taken; you can pose with a live snake and have your photo taken. Street-side karaoke is also popular, as in Ukraine, and small groups of teenagers huddle around the machines, singing along loudly and tunelessly to Kyrgyz pop songs.
Talking about Kyrgyz life, he explained to me that fighting is part of their culture. A man should be able to fight, otherwise he isn’t a real man. He has to be able to defend himself, his horses, his home and his family. (I wondered if this was in order of priority.) “Talk to the male students, ask them what they do in their free time. They’ll all tell you they learn judo or wrestling; they all want to be able to defend themselves. Talk to the girls, none of them fight, but they want to marry a man who can protect them.” It was true, the majority of male teenagers I’d spoken to were all keen in various combative sports, especially judo and wrestling.
With this in mind, I shouldn’t be too surprised that first the cleaning girl and then Danny had been attacked: “If you can’t defend yourself, don’t go out at night,” explained Ulan. "I told Danny many times, 'Don't go out at night', but he didn't believe me."
If you want to go out, don’t go out alone.
The problem is compounded at this time of year by the arrival of fresh new (male) students: young, energetic, away from home for the first time, looking to ‘prove’ themselves in the big city, and bored with their studies. Violence comes naturally to them.
Picture: hooray for my C&B camera.
We also walked past a few statues and monuments, but my Carrot & Bush camera is rubbish at taking photos in poor lighting, so I quickly gave up trying. We also walked along one of the ‘parks’, a long thin stretch of paths and trees separating two roads: it’s a popular place for young couples to meet, though tonight it was occupied by groups of boys and girls, not mixing with each other, and drinking.
Deciding to move on, Ulan began driving somewhere, I assumed home. We passed the Vefa Centre, a shiny new shopping arcade; Ulan had never been in and decided he would like to. Inside, he was clearly more at home than he had been in Osh Bazaar. Everything was modern, with small fashion boutiques and recognisable Western names. We’d even had to pass through security gates to enter the centre; I don’t know why, they weren’t going to stop any bombs or guns because they didn’t even bother about my keys.
Most shops were closed, but Ulan was still happy exploring, until we came to the cinema. When he realised that we hadn’t missed the last film of the evening, he decided we should see it – even though it was in Russian. He phoned his wife using the ticket lady’s phone; yes, she would join us, so he bought three tickets.
The film was due to start in five minutes so I assumed she would come by taxi. Of course I was wrong. We set off to pick her up. Ulan suggested I wait in the book shop, but I knew that this might mean waiting indefinitely and it would be better to stick with Ulan. As we left the Vefa Centre, Ulan commented that although the Centre was Turkish-built, Turkish-owned and Turkish-run, the security guards were all Kyrgyz. “Why? Because nobody here would accept a foreign security guard. How can a foreign person protect something in our country, that’s just wrong. If people here see a Russian or a Turkish security guard, they will wait for him outside, with a gang of their friends, and when he finishes work they will beat him up. It happened a few times, and now all the Turkish companies know to use only Kyrgyz security guards.”
It was a ten-minute drive to Ulan’s house. I waited in the car. Ulan explained that it was a safe neighbourhood: the local gang kept things safe. Criminals kept away because a member of the gang was always ‘on duty’ to protect the area. Ulan was known to be a resident there, so he was safe. If somebody else arrived, the gang member would question him, and if he wasn’t happy with the response, get rid of him. So by and large it’s a safe neighbourhood; occasionally there is violent between the gangs but this is usually pre-arranged and occurs at a ‘neutral’ location.
After waiting for roughly 10 minutes, Ulan returned without his wife. She wasn’t coming after all, but a cousin was instead. The cousin spoke no English.
We arrived back at the cinema in time to miss several minutes of the film. It was in Russian, so I understood nothing. But at the end of each scene Ulan was happy to explain what was going on, so at least I could follow the plot. It was actually a highly entertaining film: a joint US-Russian-Kazakh production, it had a big enough budget to achieve some Hollywood-style special effects, but the Asian influence prevented this from being just another Hollywood action film. The plot may have had a few holes, but if only for the scenery and the images of traditional life in the region it was well worth watching. The basic story is a common theme here: local tribes unite (unwillingly) to repel a foreign invader, usually Mongol. The truth is that throughout much of the history of this region, the Kyrgyz and Kazakh nomadic tribes put more effort into fighting each other than common enemies, with the consequence that invading tribes and nations simply passed through the region on their way to richer destinations.
Picture: view from the Panoram.
After the film, Ulan decided the night was still young and we should visit a bar. Within two minutes he’d changed his mind and decided we should buy some beer and food from a supermarket. Then he wanted to drive to the ‘Panoram’, a place in the mountains from which you have a panoramic view of Bishkek. So far so good: unfortunately he didn’t know the way. It took a long time to find it; when we got there, we ate the food, I drank the beer, and that was that. I got home at 3am and finally went to bed.
We were to cook ‘mini manty,’ or ‘pjelmeny’ (sp?) as they are known. For this we needed hot water, and so I filled the kettle. Ulan then explained that in Kyrgyzstan it’s important to fill the kettle right to the very top: a full kettle is an indication of a full and happy life. To me, a full kettle is one which is going to make the water spill over the top when it boils, getting hot water on the electrical contacts, which probably wasn’t a good idea for my Chinese-made kettle: maybe even the little orange light would stop working. But I decided it wasn’t worth arguing with Ulan, especially if it was just to point out a flaw in his national culture, so I let him fill the kettle to the brim. He did however congratulate me: "You chose a good kettle."
Another important thing in the Kyrgyz home is the knife: this should always be sharp, otherwise it brings shame to the home, especially to the man. My knife – I have just one – was sharp. The deep cut on my little finger from last week was proof of this. So far so good: my kettle was full and my knife was sharp.
Ulan asked me if I had bread; I did, but it turned out to be mouldy, and I was about to put it in the bin when I got my third lesson in Kyrgyz culture: bread is sacred. This is something I’m still not used to, but bread really is considered sacred here. If you can’t appreciate this fact, you’ll be really puzzled when I finally get round to posting about Kyrgyz wedding traditions. Just accept that bread is sacred to Kyrgyz, like cows are sacred to Hindus.So I couldn’t put the bread in the bin, because it’s sacred. What should I do with it then? Well, you shouldn’t let it go bad in the first place: it’s sacred. Ulan likes to talk, and he has an interesting technique for ensuring that his speech is not interrupted: he asks (and answers) his own questions.
“Bread is sacred. Why? Because when you are hungry, it feeds you. When you have nothing else to eat, you can eat bread. When you have something else to eat, bread will fill your belly. So you can never throw it away. Why? Because bread is sacred.” I suppose it makes sense.
At this point he had to pop back to the school. I then noticed that the kettle had indeed boiled over and Ulan had made a half-hearted attempt to mop it up with the tea-towel before escaping and leaving the problem to me. I disconnected the kettle from the mains and began mopping up, before I realised that the kettle hadn't just boiled over, it was actually leaking. Chinese crap. How can they sell a kettle which isn't waterproof?
When he returned, Ulan soon had to make some phone calls (see? It’s good to have a phone) and left me chopping tomatoes and cucumbers. I then asked him about the strange jar I’d found in one of the cupboards when I’d moved in. It was half-filled with a strange grey substance, a little like dust, and the lid was sealed; I hadn’t risked opening it.
“It’s bread,” explained Ulan. The previous occupant of my flat hadn’t thrown away his breadcrumbs, he’d carefully put them in a jar and never thrown them away. Even when he moved out of the flat, he hadn’t thrown them away.
Then Ulan spotted the end of a roll in my bin. “Is that bread?” he asked, and fished it out of the bin and put it with my mouldy bread. Wondering what his reaction would be, I told him that the kettle leaked. Of course, he didn't say that he'd seen it overflowing and had tried to mop up the water before running away; instead, he agreed it was rather strange, and said: "You didn't choose a good kettle."
The pjelmeny were coming along nicely, the cucumbers and tomatoes had been turned into salad, fresh bread had been stolen from Bolek, a bottle of kymys was in the fridge, tea was brewing, and the tin of sprats opened. Everything was ready, except for one thing: Ulan had to go. “I’ll be back in five minutes. They need me at the school,” he explained.
Quite hungry by this time, I wasn’t too impressed. These were five Kyrgyz minutes and lasted about half an hour.
During this time I had a rather odd phone call. Somebody I didn’t know wanted to speak to me, but she couldn’t speak English. It turned out we could both speak some German, so we managed to communicate. She had been given my phone number by somebody. Who? Somebody I’d never heard of had given somebody else my phone number and now this person wanted to talk to me in faltering German. It took some time to work out that Lena had given her my number – she used a different version of Lena’s name and I had no idea who she was talking about.
Gradually it became clear that this was the girl Lena had found for me as a Russian teacher. Well, good, but it was going to be tough to learn Russian in German, especially as neither of us was fluent in German. We arranged to meet on Monday morning at 8.30.
Ulan returned, and finally we could eat. He’s a fast eater and we were soon finished. Then he suggested showing me Bishkek by night, so off we went.
I had imagined visiting a couple of bars, but instead we just walked around the centre. It was interesting though, especially as after the recent nocturnal attacks I probably wouldn’t have ventured into town alone at night. We did see some drunken violence but not much; it was more interesting to observe the villagers who had come to experience the bright city lights. Street-side stalls cater for their tastes: you can have your photo taken with a landmark in the background, a cheesy border or pattern added to the photo and then printed onto cheap photographic paper; you can pose beside a shiny German car and have your photo taken; you can pose with a live snake and have your photo taken. Street-side karaoke is also popular, as in Ukraine, and small groups of teenagers huddle around the machines, singing along loudly and tunelessly to Kyrgyz pop songs.
Talking about Kyrgyz life, he explained to me that fighting is part of their culture. A man should be able to fight, otherwise he isn’t a real man. He has to be able to defend himself, his horses, his home and his family. (I wondered if this was in order of priority.) “Talk to the male students, ask them what they do in their free time. They’ll all tell you they learn judo or wrestling; they all want to be able to defend themselves. Talk to the girls, none of them fight, but they want to marry a man who can protect them.” It was true, the majority of male teenagers I’d spoken to were all keen in various combative sports, especially judo and wrestling.
With this in mind, I shouldn’t be too surprised that first the cleaning girl and then Danny had been attacked: “If you can’t defend yourself, don’t go out at night,” explained Ulan. "I told Danny many times, 'Don't go out at night', but he didn't believe me."If you want to go out, don’t go out alone.
The problem is compounded at this time of year by the arrival of fresh new (male) students: young, energetic, away from home for the first time, looking to ‘prove’ themselves in the big city, and bored with their studies. Violence comes naturally to them.
Picture: hooray for my C&B camera.
We also walked past a few statues and monuments, but my Carrot & Bush camera is rubbish at taking photos in poor lighting, so I quickly gave up trying. We also walked along one of the ‘parks’, a long thin stretch of paths and trees separating two roads: it’s a popular place for young couples to meet, though tonight it was occupied by groups of boys and girls, not mixing with each other, and drinking.
Deciding to move on, Ulan began driving somewhere, I assumed home. We passed the Vefa Centre, a shiny new shopping arcade; Ulan had never been in and decided he would like to. Inside, he was clearly more at home than he had been in Osh Bazaar. Everything was modern, with small fashion boutiques and recognisable Western names. We’d even had to pass through security gates to enter the centre; I don’t know why, they weren’t going to stop any bombs or guns because they didn’t even bother about my keys.
Most shops were closed, but Ulan was still happy exploring, until we came to the cinema. When he realised that we hadn’t missed the last film of the evening, he decided we should see it – even though it was in Russian. He phoned his wife using the ticket lady’s phone; yes, she would join us, so he bought three tickets.
The film was due to start in five minutes so I assumed she would come by taxi. Of course I was wrong. We set off to pick her up. Ulan suggested I wait in the book shop, but I knew that this might mean waiting indefinitely and it would be better to stick with Ulan. As we left the Vefa Centre, Ulan commented that although the Centre was Turkish-built, Turkish-owned and Turkish-run, the security guards were all Kyrgyz. “Why? Because nobody here would accept a foreign security guard. How can a foreign person protect something in our country, that’s just wrong. If people here see a Russian or a Turkish security guard, they will wait for him outside, with a gang of their friends, and when he finishes work they will beat him up. It happened a few times, and now all the Turkish companies know to use only Kyrgyz security guards.”It was a ten-minute drive to Ulan’s house. I waited in the car. Ulan explained that it was a safe neighbourhood: the local gang kept things safe. Criminals kept away because a member of the gang was always ‘on duty’ to protect the area. Ulan was known to be a resident there, so he was safe. If somebody else arrived, the gang member would question him, and if he wasn’t happy with the response, get rid of him. So by and large it’s a safe neighbourhood; occasionally there is violent between the gangs but this is usually pre-arranged and occurs at a ‘neutral’ location.
After waiting for roughly 10 minutes, Ulan returned without his wife. She wasn’t coming after all, but a cousin was instead. The cousin spoke no English.
We arrived back at the cinema in time to miss several minutes of the film. It was in Russian, so I understood nothing. But at the end of each scene Ulan was happy to explain what was going on, so at least I could follow the plot. It was actually a highly entertaining film: a joint US-Russian-Kazakh production, it had a big enough budget to achieve some Hollywood-style special effects, but the Asian influence prevented this from being just another Hollywood action film. The plot may have had a few holes, but if only for the scenery and the images of traditional life in the region it was well worth watching. The basic story is a common theme here: local tribes unite (unwillingly) to repel a foreign invader, usually Mongol. The truth is that throughout much of the history of this region, the Kyrgyz and Kazakh nomadic tribes put more effort into fighting each other than common enemies, with the consequence that invading tribes and nations simply passed through the region on their way to richer destinations.Picture: view from the Panoram.
After the film, Ulan decided the night was still young and we should visit a bar. Within two minutes he’d changed his mind and decided we should buy some beer and food from a supermarket. Then he wanted to drive to the ‘Panoram’, a place in the mountains from which you have a panoramic view of Bishkek. So far so good: unfortunately he didn’t know the way. It took a long time to find it; when we got there, we ate the food, I drank the beer, and that was that. I got home at 3am and finally went to bed.
Day 16 – Hobbling round Bishkek...
After last night’s beer and pain I didn’t plan on doing much today. A couple of times during the week, Ulan had asked me what I was doing for food. Pasta, I explained. Sometime with chopped Kyrgyz salami, sometimes with tomato sauce, and sometimes with olive oil. He didn’t like the sound of this, but I explained that my priority during lunch breaks was to fill my stomach as quickly as possible and to go to sleep. Unlike most Kyrgyz men, I don’t have a wife at home cooking and cleaning for me.
Keen for me to eat well and to enjoy Kyrgyz food, Ulan said something about feeding me at the weekend, and we arranged to meet at 2pm. I assumed that would mean eating together, sometime in the later afternoon or evening. I was partially correct.
Of course, he didn’t come to my flat at 2pm. I phoned the school to see where he was (see? It’s good to have a phone.) The secretary, who speaks only a little English, told me that he was “absent” and would be back in “one hour”. An hour later I got exactly the same answer – well, I didn’t expect anything else. What to do? With my ankle swelling up like a balloon, there wasn’t much I could do. With the time difference it was too early to go to the pub to watch English football. Bored, I set of to hobble slowly around town. Most of the photos of Bishkek next few posts are from this morning.
Progress around town was slow; my ankle hurt and I should probably have been resting it, and the sun was hot. But it was good to actually do something, to get out of my flat and away from the school, out into daylight.
Picture: walking along the flat streets, it's easy to forget you're in mountain country.
Bishkek is not a beautiful city. It’s pleasant enough with its tree-lined avenues and parks. Once in the past there was an effort to make it ‘the marble city’ and several public buildings and squares are paved with slabs of marble. But the man in Moscow with the idea moved on, the money dried up, and the dream died. And with Bishkek’s air quality, the marble isn’t as pleasing to the eye as it could be. And away from the marble, much of the architecture is Communist: old, grey, crumbling concrete. The Soviets liked their buildings grey on the outside and brown on the inside.
Bishkek seemed surprisingly quiet for a Saturday. I expected to find people enjoying the weekend, but not even the fountains were working. Walking along a rather empty park, I was reflecting how flat Bishkek is; for a country which is more than 85% mountain, it must occupy one of the only flat parts in the country. Turning back to look at where I’d just come from, I was stunned to see mountains towering over the building I’d just photographed. I hadn’t realised they were so close!
Picture: Get far enough away from the buildings to see over them and you see that Kyrgyzstan is not so flat.
Later I went to the Metro pub to see if there would be any football showing. As I walked in, they were just finishing filming for a Kyrgyz pop video. The landlord, from east London, was quite dismissive of the whole thing: he respected Kyrgyz pop even less than British pop. I wondered why he’d settled in Kyrgyzstan: apparently he’d just got tired of being a nomadic IT consultant in Central Asia and decided to settle in Bishkek. Later I spotted him with a rather attractive Kyrgyz girl half his age and wondered if she was the reason why he’d chosen Bishkek or if she was just one of the perks of being a reasonably wealthy foreigner in a developing country. Certainly there are opportunities here if you’re foreign and can offer a girl a short-cut to a wealthier life.
Keen for me to eat well and to enjoy Kyrgyz food, Ulan said something about feeding me at the weekend, and we arranged to meet at 2pm. I assumed that would mean eating together, sometime in the later afternoon or evening. I was partially correct.
Of course, he didn’t come to my flat at 2pm. I phoned the school to see where he was (see? It’s good to have a phone.) The secretary, who speaks only a little English, told me that he was “absent” and would be back in “one hour”. An hour later I got exactly the same answer – well, I didn’t expect anything else. What to do? With my ankle swelling up like a balloon, there wasn’t much I could do. With the time difference it was too early to go to the pub to watch English football. Bored, I set of to hobble slowly around town. Most of the photos of Bishkek next few posts are from this morning.
Progress around town was slow; my ankle hurt and I should probably have been resting it, and the sun was hot. But it was good to actually do something, to get out of my flat and away from the school, out into daylight.Picture: walking along the flat streets, it's easy to forget you're in mountain country.
Bishkek is not a beautiful city. It’s pleasant enough with its tree-lined avenues and parks. Once in the past there was an effort to make it ‘the marble city’ and several public buildings and squares are paved with slabs of marble. But the man in Moscow with the idea moved on, the money dried up, and the dream died. And with Bishkek’s air quality, the marble isn’t as pleasing to the eye as it could be. And away from the marble, much of the architecture is Communist: old, grey, crumbling concrete. The Soviets liked their buildings grey on the outside and brown on the inside.
Bishkek seemed surprisingly quiet for a Saturday. I expected to find people enjoying the weekend, but not even the fountains were working. Walking along a rather empty park, I was reflecting how flat Bishkek is; for a country which is more than 85% mountain, it must occupy one of the only flat parts in the country. Turning back to look at where I’d just come from, I was stunned to see mountains towering over the building I’d just photographed. I hadn’t realised they were so close!
Picture: Get far enough away from the buildings to see over them and you see that Kyrgyzstan is not so flat.
Later I went to the Metro pub to see if there would be any football showing. As I walked in, they were just finishing filming for a Kyrgyz pop video. The landlord, from east London, was quite dismissive of the whole thing: he respected Kyrgyz pop even less than British pop. I wondered why he’d settled in Kyrgyzstan: apparently he’d just got tired of being a nomadic IT consultant in Central Asia and decided to settle in Bishkek. Later I spotted him with a rather attractive Kyrgyz girl half his age and wondered if she was the reason why he’d chosen Bishkek or if she was just one of the perks of being a reasonably wealthy foreigner in a developing country. Certainly there are opportunities here if you’re foreign and can offer a girl a short-cut to a wealthier life.
Saturday, October 07, 2006
Day 15 - a new flatmate
Start at 7.40. Elementary Talking Club. The same class as on Wednesday and Monday...
It’s good because it means I recognise the faces and they know me (even if I can’t remember their names.) It’s bad because it means I need to think of new things to discuss with them. I hadn’t thought of anything, and neither had they: as far as they’re concerned, that’s my job. They pay to learn here, so they had a good point, but I didn’t have a good idea, which I thought was also a good point. I turned to the board, which was as blank as my mind. I wondered what I was doing in Kyrgyzstan, and decided to ask them. The lesson evolved into a description, with me feeding them the lines, of Kyrgyzstan, and a discussion of what I should visit. It was hard work, but it was quite successful as a lesson.
Next: Elementary Talking Club. I tried the same topic, and it worked ok. Most of this class aren’t interested in constructing sentences, for them it’s enough to blurt out words, so whereas the first class of morning were, with help, making sentences like “You should visit Osh,” or “Issyk-Kul is very beautiful,” with this class I get “Osh!” and "Issyk-Kul. Very beautiful!” They’re just not interested in making complete sentences and teaching them is frustrating.
Another Elementary Talking Club, another guided tour to the sights of Kyrgyzstan. I like this class, but their English is very ‘Elementary’ and so it’s hard work to teach them. But from one simple idea I'd managed to teach three classes.
I overheard Danny describing some kind of accident to some of his students. He’s an emotional man, and opinionated: his world seems to be divided into black and white and he is not short of self-confidence. Later I got the full story, though by this time he’d clearly told it several times and embellished it more with each retelling.
He’d been helping a friend move house the night before and at about 2am they’d decided to get something to eat. Walking along Toktogul Street, a car had swerved to a halt in front of them and three men jumped out. The first, a big man, swung his fist and floored Danny’s friend. He then flattened Danny’s other friend, before fighting with Danny. Of course, Danny wasn’t flattened with one blow – he was telling the story after all – and he grappled with the man. His two friends did nothing to help, nor did the other two men from the car. Danny’s shaved head picked up a lot of cuts when the two of them fell to the ground, and after they both got back to their feet, the big man said “Friend, friend” in Russian and offered his hand for shaking. Confused, Danny reached to shake it, and the man hit him in the head. Then events are a little unclear, but it seems the men got back in their car and drove off. No mugging, no money was taken, this man simply wanted to fight.
Picture: the corner of the street where the attack happened.
This was the second attack in two nights, and both had taken place on Toktogul Street. I decided it might be a good idea to avoid this street, especially tonight, but unfortunately I happen to live on it. Danny was actually attacked at the junction of Toktogul and the street where we work: so that’s the corner I walk past several times a day.
At lunch time I met Bolek and lent him my keys so that he could get his own cut. We ate lunch together: Sharma. It’s like a doner kebab but in a thinner wrapping, rolled up into a parcel, and with rather dry potato chips inside. Two of these cost about a euro and are enough to fill the hole for a few hours. It made a change from the spaghetti I cook most days.
The afternoon lessons were like Wednesday’s. I am noticing a pattern: the classes seem to alternate each day between Grammar and Talking Club. I also noticed another pattern: my 3.00 class are no fun to teach, the 4.20 class lack any enthusiasm for learning, the 5.40 class are great, the 7.00 class don’t think I know enough to teach them, and the 8.30 class, despite my initial reluctance, are a good class.
Back at the flat, Bolek had moved in. He didn’t expect to stay for more than a couple of days and was content to live out of his suitcase. He was very grateful to me for letting him stay, and I wondered if perhaps it wouldn’t be as bad as I’d feared. I’d got used to living alone, but maybe it would be a good thing to have some company.
Picture: my living room, now Bolek's bedroom. Incidentally, the TV works but there is no signal.
We decided to go for a beer. The ‘Metro’ Bar was closing (it was midnight), but eventually we found a Turkish-owned place still open. It wasn’t a bar, it was more of a restaurant, and we ordered kirieshki with our beers. It was good to end the week with a drink, and to swap stories about the countries we’d visited. Poles, unlike Germans, do not bother looking each other in the eye when they say ‘Cheers’. I thought they were like the English: don’t waste valuable drinking time, especially when you have a fresh beer in front of you. But it seems Poles like to make toasts before they drink, so they probably waste even more valuable drinking time than the Germans.
Bolek also told me that he’d learned from a Turk that touching your cups together originated in Ancient Greece. In those days, it was considered bad form to murder a guest in your house, so even your enemy could eat with you, drink with you, and sleep in your house. However, poison was considered an acceptable alternative, so it was not unusual to try to poison your enemy. To prevent this, a guest would knock his wine cup against his host’s, ensuring that some of his wine spilled into his host’s cup. That way if the host tried to poison him he would poison them both.
When we left the bar it was raining outside. We happened to leave at the same time as a group of Kyrgyz people; the girls were very drunk. The boys were initially interested in talking to us, until the girls realised we were European. Then we each had a couple of rather plump drunken Kyrgyz girls hanging on our arms and refusing to let go. The boys were clearly unimpressed by this and stood huddled in a group, obivously trying to work out how to 'win' their girls back. Neither I nor Bolek were remotely interested in the girls or their banal, incoherent conversations, but we couldn’t get rid of them. All the time the rain was pouring down. Eventually one of the boys came and prised their fingers off my arm and pushed me none-too-gently away.
Quite amused by all this, I let Bolek lead the way home. He’s been in Bishkek longer than me and my sense of navigation isn’t too good when I’m sober, let alone after a couple of strong Russian beers. We walked along Toktogul Street, but it seemed deserted in the rain. I hoped this meant we wouldn’t be the vicitims of a third attack, but the streets of Bishkek are barely lit
after dark and often you can’t see somebody approaching until they are just in front of you. It also means you can’t see the pavements, which are in worse condition than the roads: uneven due to the oak tree roots, and covered in pot-holes, which obviously creates puddles everywhere. And it was because of this that I became the third victim of Toktogul Street: jumping a large puddle in the dark, I landed on uneven ground and went over on my ankle. Even with my protective beer jacket this hurt like hell and I limped home cold, went, drunk and annoyed.
It’s good because it means I recognise the faces and they know me (even if I can’t remember their names.) It’s bad because it means I need to think of new things to discuss with them. I hadn’t thought of anything, and neither had they: as far as they’re concerned, that’s my job. They pay to learn here, so they had a good point, but I didn’t have a good idea, which I thought was also a good point. I turned to the board, which was as blank as my mind. I wondered what I was doing in Kyrgyzstan, and decided to ask them. The lesson evolved into a description, with me feeding them the lines, of Kyrgyzstan, and a discussion of what I should visit. It was hard work, but it was quite successful as a lesson.
Next: Elementary Talking Club. I tried the same topic, and it worked ok. Most of this class aren’t interested in constructing sentences, for them it’s enough to blurt out words, so whereas the first class of morning were, with help, making sentences like “You should visit Osh,” or “Issyk-Kul is very beautiful,” with this class I get “Osh!” and "Issyk-Kul. Very beautiful!” They’re just not interested in making complete sentences and teaching them is frustrating.
Another Elementary Talking Club, another guided tour to the sights of Kyrgyzstan. I like this class, but their English is very ‘Elementary’ and so it’s hard work to teach them. But from one simple idea I'd managed to teach three classes.
I overheard Danny describing some kind of accident to some of his students. He’s an emotional man, and opinionated: his world seems to be divided into black and white and he is not short of self-confidence. Later I got the full story, though by this time he’d clearly told it several times and embellished it more with each retelling.
He’d been helping a friend move house the night before and at about 2am they’d decided to get something to eat. Walking along Toktogul Street, a car had swerved to a halt in front of them and three men jumped out. The first, a big man, swung his fist and floored Danny’s friend. He then flattened Danny’s other friend, before fighting with Danny. Of course, Danny wasn’t flattened with one blow – he was telling the story after all – and he grappled with the man. His two friends did nothing to help, nor did the other two men from the car. Danny’s shaved head picked up a lot of cuts when the two of them fell to the ground, and after they both got back to their feet, the big man said “Friend, friend” in Russian and offered his hand for shaking. Confused, Danny reached to shake it, and the man hit him in the head. Then events are a little unclear, but it seems the men got back in their car and drove off. No mugging, no money was taken, this man simply wanted to fight.Picture: the corner of the street where the attack happened.
This was the second attack in two nights, and both had taken place on Toktogul Street. I decided it might be a good idea to avoid this street, especially tonight, but unfortunately I happen to live on it. Danny was actually attacked at the junction of Toktogul and the street where we work: so that’s the corner I walk past several times a day.
At lunch time I met Bolek and lent him my keys so that he could get his own cut. We ate lunch together: Sharma. It’s like a doner kebab but in a thinner wrapping, rolled up into a parcel, and with rather dry potato chips inside. Two of these cost about a euro and are enough to fill the hole for a few hours. It made a change from the spaghetti I cook most days.
The afternoon lessons were like Wednesday’s. I am noticing a pattern: the classes seem to alternate each day between Grammar and Talking Club. I also noticed another pattern: my 3.00 class are no fun to teach, the 4.20 class lack any enthusiasm for learning, the 5.40 class are great, the 7.00 class don’t think I know enough to teach them, and the 8.30 class, despite my initial reluctance, are a good class.
Back at the flat, Bolek had moved in. He didn’t expect to stay for more than a couple of days and was content to live out of his suitcase. He was very grateful to me for letting him stay, and I wondered if perhaps it wouldn’t be as bad as I’d feared. I’d got used to living alone, but maybe it would be a good thing to have some company.Picture: my living room, now Bolek's bedroom. Incidentally, the TV works but there is no signal.
We decided to go for a beer. The ‘Metro’ Bar was closing (it was midnight), but eventually we found a Turkish-owned place still open. It wasn’t a bar, it was more of a restaurant, and we ordered kirieshki with our beers. It was good to end the week with a drink, and to swap stories about the countries we’d visited. Poles, unlike Germans, do not bother looking each other in the eye when they say ‘Cheers’. I thought they were like the English: don’t waste valuable drinking time, especially when you have a fresh beer in front of you. But it seems Poles like to make toasts before they drink, so they probably waste even more valuable drinking time than the Germans.
Bolek also told me that he’d learned from a Turk that touching your cups together originated in Ancient Greece. In those days, it was considered bad form to murder a guest in your house, so even your enemy could eat with you, drink with you, and sleep in your house. However, poison was considered an acceptable alternative, so it was not unusual to try to poison your enemy. To prevent this, a guest would knock his wine cup against his host’s, ensuring that some of his wine spilled into his host’s cup. That way if the host tried to poison him he would poison them both.
When we left the bar it was raining outside. We happened to leave at the same time as a group of Kyrgyz people; the girls were very drunk. The boys were initially interested in talking to us, until the girls realised we were European. Then we each had a couple of rather plump drunken Kyrgyz girls hanging on our arms and refusing to let go. The boys were clearly unimpressed by this and stood huddled in a group, obivously trying to work out how to 'win' their girls back. Neither I nor Bolek were remotely interested in the girls or their banal, incoherent conversations, but we couldn’t get rid of them. All the time the rain was pouring down. Eventually one of the boys came and prised their fingers off my arm and pushed me none-too-gently away.
Quite amused by all this, I let Bolek lead the way home. He’s been in Bishkek longer than me and my sense of navigation isn’t too good when I’m sober, let alone after a couple of strong Russian beers. We walked along Toktogul Street, but it seemed deserted in the rain. I hoped this meant we wouldn’t be the vicitims of a third attack, but the streets of Bishkek are barely lit
after dark and often you can’t see somebody approaching until they are just in front of you. It also means you can’t see the pavements, which are in worse condition than the roads: uneven due to the oak tree roots, and covered in pot-holes, which obviously creates puddles everywhere. And it was because of this that I became the third victim of Toktogul Street: jumping a large puddle in the dark, I landed on uneven ground and went over on my ankle. Even with my protective beer jacket this hurt like hell and I limped home cold, went, drunk and annoyed.
Day 14 - the end of solitude.
After the entertainment of the night before I was happy to sleep in on Thursday morning. I was woken by the phone: it was Lena with some news for me. Bolek had been asked to move out of the flat where he was staying and they had been unable to find anywhere else for him. As my flat was quite spacious, would I mind him living with me?
I’d already been told by my students that in Kyrgyzstan you home must always be open to friends, guests and relatives. If you find a job in the city, you can expect to have regular visits from your rural relatives who want to see Bishkek (and in countries like Kyrgyzstan, the cousin of your grandfather’s cousin’s nephew’s wife counts as a relative); these visits can last indefinitely. If somebody from a village decides to study in a Bishkek university then they live, like Lena, with a relative there: university courses last about 4 years, so they simply move in with a relative for 4 years. I suppose it’s all part of the tradition of hospitality, and apparently it would be terribly rude to refuse a visit from even a distant relative: you would be ostracised by your whole family.
Picture: the view from my balcony. Actually, the view is usually obscured by net curtains and a mosquite-proof net. But when I move these aside, this is what I can see.
These thoughts went through my mind, and anyway, if Bolek had nowhere to stay, I couldn’t really refuse. I wasn’t happy though, and I explained to Lena that I saw this as a short-term solution and that the Aiesec girls shouldn’t give up trying to find somewhere permanent for him. I didn’t mind giving him a roof for a couple of weeks if necessary, but the thought of someone I’d met just twice moving in with me for the rest of my time in Kyrgyzstan really didn’t appeal to me.
I was considering going back to bed when the doorbell rang. There were several people outside who seemed to want to come in but they didn’t speak English; something about a “home-see”. I liked the sound of that even less than somebody moving in with me, so of course I didn’t let them in. Five minutes later they were still standing outside my door when the phone rang again. It was Aigul, the other secretary from the school. Her aunt, who owns my flat, wants to sell it when I leave, and these people outside my door had come to view the flat. Could I let them in please?
The afternoon passed uneventfully. I taught until 10pm, enjoyed the 5.40 class
and the last class of the evening, and didn’t enjoy the 3.00 class. After waiting for my payment, it was to home and to sleep, for my last night in the solitude of my flat. I would write peace and quiet, but I have the noisiest fridge in the world and even closing the three doors separating it from my bed isn’t enough to reduce the buzz. Of course, it could be because the doors in my flat fit so badly that even the strip of (brown) carpet stapled inside the doorframe at head height isn’t enough to keep them closed and I have to wedge one shut with a length of telephone cable and another with a tea-towel.
Picture: the view from my bed. Behind these cupboards lies the kitchen and the epicentre of the humming.
I’d already been told by my students that in Kyrgyzstan you home must always be open to friends, guests and relatives. If you find a job in the city, you can expect to have regular visits from your rural relatives who want to see Bishkek (and in countries like Kyrgyzstan, the cousin of your grandfather’s cousin’s nephew’s wife counts as a relative); these visits can last indefinitely. If somebody from a village decides to study in a Bishkek university then they live, like Lena, with a relative there: university courses last about 4 years, so they simply move in with a relative for 4 years. I suppose it’s all part of the tradition of hospitality, and apparently it would be terribly rude to refuse a visit from even a distant relative: you would be ostracised by your whole family.Picture: the view from my balcony. Actually, the view is usually obscured by net curtains and a mosquite-proof net. But when I move these aside, this is what I can see.
These thoughts went through my mind, and anyway, if Bolek had nowhere to stay, I couldn’t really refuse. I wasn’t happy though, and I explained to Lena that I saw this as a short-term solution and that the Aiesec girls shouldn’t give up trying to find somewhere permanent for him. I didn’t mind giving him a roof for a couple of weeks if necessary, but the thought of someone I’d met just twice moving in with me for the rest of my time in Kyrgyzstan really didn’t appeal to me.
I was considering going back to bed when the doorbell rang. There were several people outside who seemed to want to come in but they didn’t speak English; something about a “home-see”. I liked the sound of that even less than somebody moving in with me, so of course I didn’t let them in. Five minutes later they were still standing outside my door when the phone rang again. It was Aigul, the other secretary from the school. Her aunt, who owns my flat, wants to sell it when I leave, and these people outside my door had come to view the flat. Could I let them in please?
The afternoon passed uneventfully. I taught until 10pm, enjoyed the 5.40 class
and the last class of the evening, and didn’t enjoy the 3.00 class. After waiting for my payment, it was to home and to sleep, for my last night in the solitude of my flat. I would write peace and quiet, but I have the noisiest fridge in the world and even closing the three doors separating it from my bed isn’t enough to reduce the buzz. Of course, it could be because the doors in my flat fit so badly that even the strip of (brown) carpet stapled inside the doorframe at head height isn’t enough to keep them closed and I have to wedge one shut with a length of telephone cable and another with a tea-towel.Picture: the view from my bed. Behind these cupboards lies the kitchen and the epicentre of the humming.
Friday, October 06, 2006
Day 13 - A full day and a party.
Start at 7.40. Elementary Talking Club. The same class as on Monday.
What shall we talk about today, I asked them. Blank faces stared back at me. I had nothing prepared, they had no suggestions. After Monday’s lesson about introductions, I took them on to describing their families. “His name is, her name is, he is and she is.” Riveting stuff.
Another Elementary Talking Club, another discussion about people’s brothers and sisters.
And, in case I needed more practice, I then had another Elementary Talking Club, i.e. another discussion about people’s brothers and sisters. My brain was turning to mush, but I did notice that today’s students were mostly the same as Monday’s. Maybe there is some pattern here.
The morning Intermediate class, who had been the highlight of my Monday morning, were nowhere to be found. Maybe there is no pattern here. As far as I could gather, the class had been disbanded, and the few remaining students moved to different classes at different times of the day. Instead, I had another Elementary Talking Club… Followed by Little Miss Sunshine herself, Selena. The vampire was on form today, explaining that she doesn’t like her neighbours and that she doesn’t like homosexuals. I wonder if she likes anybody; I know she doesn’t like me.
The afternoon classes were like Monday. The 5.40 class were again the only highlight, although the last class of the day, from 8.30 to 10.00, are showing signs of being a good class. It’s hard, I really don’t want to teach them, I don’t want to like them, but they do seem to be a likeable class.
Picture: Some of the local currency, with a $10 note which I was unable to change as it was apparently "too crumpled."
Today was the birthday of one of the girls who works as a secretary, Tanja. There was to be a celebration that evening, but of course Ulan first had to deal with all the students’ problems and pay the staff who weren’t staying, so there was some time to kill. Empty classrooms have a strange feel to them, especially when the cleaning girl stacks all the chairs on the tables so that she can clean the carpets. Today, however, she wasn’t doing this; she was standing alone in an empty room, crying her eyes out. What do you do in a foreign country when you find a girl crying but can’t communicate with her in any way? Nobody else seemed to be particularly concerned, and she managed to indicate to me that she didn’t want any assistance so I sat her in a chair and left her covering her mouth with the dirty towel that hangs by the basin.
Ulan was still busy in his office with a gentleman; he said yes, he knew there was a girl crying, and he would deal with it later.
Gradually it became apparent that she had been walking to the school when she’d been attacked. She’d been hit in the mouth and had her purse stolen; this girl who doesn’t even come up to my shoulder had been mugged by a gang of eight youths just a few minutes’ walk away on Toktogul Street
Ulan was none too pleased by events. The debate was in Russian and Kyrgyz, but there seemed to be some consensus to go after the youths and to teach them a lesson. Danny, the short Canadian teacher with the shaved head, bushy eye-brows and muscle-bound body offered to phone some friends to come and help. Ulan went off alone and returned minutes later with half a dozen teenagers whom I presumed were either students or passers-by he’d rounded up to come and help. I was quite puzzled when instead of setting off to find the attackers, Ulan led them into one of the classrooms. I followed, but Ulan turned to me, muttered something about ‘guarding the doorway’ and disappeared. Assuming this was some misunderstanding I was trying to work out what he’d actually meant when he returned wielding a large kitchen knife and it finally dawned on me that these young men weren’t going to help us, they were the ones who’d attacked the girl.
Up till now the youths had been full of themselves; suddenly they
were very scared. Ulan herded them into a corner and some angry words were exchanged and the knife was waved around a bit. The girl was summoned but she could not identify any of them: it seemed the one who’d actually hit her in the mouth and taken her purse had then run off. I never did find out if these were the youths who’d been with him or if they’d just been passing by. Eventually the situation calmed down and Ulan let the boys go.
Picture: the street where I work; note the Kyrgyz and Russian versions of the same street name.
After driving the cleaning girl home, Ulan rejoined us and the ‘party’ finally began. There was beer and kirieshki (like small hard croutons with a strong flavour, they go well with alcohol), and a very sugary birthday cake. I was puzzled why Tanja was celebrating with us in the school, but she seemed happy enough. It was her 18th birthday: legally in Kyrgyzstan this means you can vote, buy cigarettes and alcohol, and get married.
The man I assumed was her boyfriend turned out not to be, though he didn’t try to hide the fact that he would clearly like to be. Instead, Tanja’s boyfriend waited for her in the car –the ‘party’ lasted a good couple of hours and he just sat in the car waiting. I found it odd that she was celebrating with us in the first place, odd that her boyfriend made no effort to join in… in fact, I found the whole situation very odd.
But it was good to relax, to drink some beer, to make jokes and swap stories, and to do something other than just going home, eating and sleeping.
What shall we talk about today, I asked them. Blank faces stared back at me. I had nothing prepared, they had no suggestions. After Monday’s lesson about introductions, I took them on to describing their families. “His name is, her name is, he is and she is.” Riveting stuff.
Another Elementary Talking Club, another discussion about people’s brothers and sisters.
And, in case I needed more practice, I then had another Elementary Talking Club, i.e. another discussion about people’s brothers and sisters. My brain was turning to mush, but I did notice that today’s students were mostly the same as Monday’s. Maybe there is some pattern here.
The morning Intermediate class, who had been the highlight of my Monday morning, were nowhere to be found. Maybe there is no pattern here. As far as I could gather, the class had been disbanded, and the few remaining students moved to different classes at different times of the day. Instead, I had another Elementary Talking Club… Followed by Little Miss Sunshine herself, Selena. The vampire was on form today, explaining that she doesn’t like her neighbours and that she doesn’t like homosexuals. I wonder if she likes anybody; I know she doesn’t like me.
The afternoon classes were like Monday. The 5.40 class were again the only highlight, although the last class of the day, from 8.30 to 10.00, are showing signs of being a good class. It’s hard, I really don’t want to teach them, I don’t want to like them, but they do seem to be a likeable class.Picture: Some of the local currency, with a $10 note which I was unable to change as it was apparently "too crumpled."
Today was the birthday of one of the girls who works as a secretary, Tanja. There was to be a celebration that evening, but of course Ulan first had to deal with all the students’ problems and pay the staff who weren’t staying, so there was some time to kill. Empty classrooms have a strange feel to them, especially when the cleaning girl stacks all the chairs on the tables so that she can clean the carpets. Today, however, she wasn’t doing this; she was standing alone in an empty room, crying her eyes out. What do you do in a foreign country when you find a girl crying but can’t communicate with her in any way? Nobody else seemed to be particularly concerned, and she managed to indicate to me that she didn’t want any assistance so I sat her in a chair and left her covering her mouth with the dirty towel that hangs by the basin.
Ulan was still busy in his office with a gentleman; he said yes, he knew there was a girl crying, and he would deal with it later.
Gradually it became apparent that she had been walking to the school when she’d been attacked. She’d been hit in the mouth and had her purse stolen; this girl who doesn’t even come up to my shoulder had been mugged by a gang of eight youths just a few minutes’ walk away on Toktogul Street
Ulan was none too pleased by events. The debate was in Russian and Kyrgyz, but there seemed to be some consensus to go after the youths and to teach them a lesson. Danny, the short Canadian teacher with the shaved head, bushy eye-brows and muscle-bound body offered to phone some friends to come and help. Ulan went off alone and returned minutes later with half a dozen teenagers whom I presumed were either students or passers-by he’d rounded up to come and help. I was quite puzzled when instead of setting off to find the attackers, Ulan led them into one of the classrooms. I followed, but Ulan turned to me, muttered something about ‘guarding the doorway’ and disappeared. Assuming this was some misunderstanding I was trying to work out what he’d actually meant when he returned wielding a large kitchen knife and it finally dawned on me that these young men weren’t going to help us, they were the ones who’d attacked the girl.
Up till now the youths had been full of themselves; suddenly they
were very scared. Ulan herded them into a corner and some angry words were exchanged and the knife was waved around a bit. The girl was summoned but she could not identify any of them: it seemed the one who’d actually hit her in the mouth and taken her purse had then run off. I never did find out if these were the youths who’d been with him or if they’d just been passing by. Eventually the situation calmed down and Ulan let the boys go.Picture: the street where I work; note the Kyrgyz and Russian versions of the same street name.
After driving the cleaning girl home, Ulan rejoined us and the ‘party’ finally began. There was beer and kirieshki (like small hard croutons with a strong flavour, they go well with alcohol), and a very sugary birthday cake. I was puzzled why Tanja was celebrating with us in the school, but she seemed happy enough. It was her 18th birthday: legally in Kyrgyzstan this means you can vote, buy cigarettes and alcohol, and get married.
The man I assumed was her boyfriend turned out not to be, though he didn’t try to hide the fact that he would clearly like to be. Instead, Tanja’s boyfriend waited for her in the car –the ‘party’ lasted a good couple of hours and he just sat in the car waiting. I found it odd that she was celebrating with us in the first place, odd that her boyfriend made no effort to join in… in fact, I found the whole situation very odd.
But it was good to relax, to drink some beer, to make jokes and swap stories, and to do something other than just going home, eating and sleeping.
Day 12 – Sunshine all around
Thankfully I didn’t have any morning classes today, so I slept until mid-day. Then it was back to school to teach Selena. What a ray of sunshine that girl is. There’s just no warmth in her. You can tell she spends her free time with her nose in a book; I’ve nothing against that, but it needs to be balanced with some social skills. And some humility, perhaps.
Attempts to go over grammar she thought she already knew were met with impatience and frustration, although any new vocabulary was diligently written down to be committed to memory. Ulan had explained before that it was important to keep the students happy, to be nice to them, and to encourage them. I resisted the urge to tell her what I thought, kept my patience, counted the minutes until the end of the lesson and wondered if I should buy some garlic.
I’m really beginning to hate giving Talking Club lessons to Elementary classes. It’s just no fun, you have to think for them, feed them every single sentence and coax the words out of them. It’s like getting blood out of a stone sometimes. I’m also getting really fed up with having no regular classes, and having no idea of who I’m teaching next. How can I prepare for a lesson if I don’t know who or what I’m teaching until 2 minutes before the class starts? This means I’m trying to make sense of the grammar while I’m teaching it. Do you know how many tenses there are in the English language? I don’t, and to make it worse students from different schools have been told different things, so the arguments range between 12 and 26 tenses, and of course as an Englishman I’m supposed to know exactly how many there are. I haven’t a clue.
The one bright spot in the day was the class at 5.40; they’re Intermediate but this is more due to their grammatical mistakes rather than their lack of knowledge of English, and they are at least prepared to try to speak. I don’t have to feed them the lines: they are the only students which actually ask each other questions instead of waiting for me to ask them individually.
The other classes, however, are hard work. Maybe they’re just not used to me as a teacher. I remember that it took quite a long time to gain the trust of the students in Pakistan, so it would be naïve to expect everything to work smoothly so quickly here. But the chaos of the school, the fact that I rarely teach the same students each day, the fact that I can’t prepare for the lessons, and the fact that all I want to do is sleep, means it’s difficult to build up any kind of rapport with the students.
Picture: my bed. It may not be that comfortable, but I would like to spend more time in it.
10.30, home and finally sleep. All I do is sleep, eat and teach; I’m not seeing anything of Bishkek, let alone Kyrgyzstan. I still sleep badly at night, I don’t eat enough and I’m not enjoying the teaching. I’m not having much fun, and tomorrow I start at 7.40 again.
Attempts to go over grammar she thought she already knew were met with impatience and frustration, although any new vocabulary was diligently written down to be committed to memory. Ulan had explained before that it was important to keep the students happy, to be nice to them, and to encourage them. I resisted the urge to tell her what I thought, kept my patience, counted the minutes until the end of the lesson and wondered if I should buy some garlic.
I’m really beginning to hate giving Talking Club lessons to Elementary classes. It’s just no fun, you have to think for them, feed them every single sentence and coax the words out of them. It’s like getting blood out of a stone sometimes. I’m also getting really fed up with having no regular classes, and having no idea of who I’m teaching next. How can I prepare for a lesson if I don’t know who or what I’m teaching until 2 minutes before the class starts? This means I’m trying to make sense of the grammar while I’m teaching it. Do you know how many tenses there are in the English language? I don’t, and to make it worse students from different schools have been told different things, so the arguments range between 12 and 26 tenses, and of course as an Englishman I’m supposed to know exactly how many there are. I haven’t a clue.
The one bright spot in the day was the class at 5.40; they’re Intermediate but this is more due to their grammatical mistakes rather than their lack of knowledge of English, and they are at least prepared to try to speak. I don’t have to feed them the lines: they are the only students which actually ask each other questions instead of waiting for me to ask them individually.
The other classes, however, are hard work. Maybe they’re just not used to me as a teacher. I remember that it took quite a long time to gain the trust of the students in Pakistan, so it would be naïve to expect everything to work smoothly so quickly here. But the chaos of the school, the fact that I rarely teach the same students each day, the fact that I can’t prepare for the lessons, and the fact that all I want to do is sleep, means it’s difficult to build up any kind of rapport with the students.Picture: my bed. It may not be that comfortable, but I would like to spend more time in it.
10.30, home and finally sleep. All I do is sleep, eat and teach; I’m not seeing anything of Bishkek, let alone Kyrgyzstan. I still sleep badly at night, I don’t eat enough and I’m not enjoying the teaching. I’m not having much fun, and tomorrow I start at 7.40 again.
Day 11, Week 2: A full Monday
In to work at 07.40. Who and what will I be teaching? An Elementary class, Talking Club – of course. That’s a hard way to start the week. These were different classes from Thursday, so I could at least begin without much thinking: “Hello, what is your name?” But in a class with only a few students this needed some padding.
Next class: Elementary Talking Club. Great. “Hello, what is your name….?” the excitement was killing me, but the pen joke still got a chuckle. This was a harder class to teach: many of the students don’t seem to want to speak English, and it’s a struggle to get them to read the words I write on the board: “My name is…….” While I think to mysekf ‘Come on, say it, just say the word I’m pointing to on the board… hello? Anybody home?’ I remembered something a teacher of mine used to say to some of his pupils many years ago: ‘the lights are on, but nobody’s home.” I can understand what he meant.
I’m not helped by the fact that in Russian you say “My name Igor” (i.e. without ‘is’.) The less intelligent students don’t see the point in using the verb so they simply leave it out.
And then another Elementary Talking Club… I did manage to teach one Intermediate class that I’d covered last week, but only three students were there so that was a little odd.
Picture: some of the wall-hangings in the entrance to the school. I'm not sure I teach with love or with courage, and I certainly don't teach people how to fly.
I also had a one-to-one lesson. This was with a charming young lady called Selena: 18 years old, I think, with as much warmth as a stone at the bottom of a pond. As far as I could make out, she had been teaching herself English in addition to what she had learned in school, which meant she had a wide-ranging vocabulary and wide-ranging grammatical mistakes. It’s strange to hear somebody speak English reasonably well and yet with so many very basic errors: the meaning is clear enough but the grammar is appalling. With her warmth and her wit the lesson just flew by: as far as she was concerned her English was nearly good enough to sit the Toefl test and she just needed some extra lessons to refine her knowledge; as far as I was concerned she just needed to suck the blood out of somebody’s neck to revive her personality. She certainly didn't need to be taught how to fly, she could just turn into a bat and fly back to her coffin.
I can’t say I was delighted when I learned I would be teaching her on a daily basis.
Home, lunch, sleep. In the afternoon I had my ‘regular’ classes, or at least my ‘regular’ hours. Ulan sent me to whichever class he thought needed covering. Students were unimpressed at having their regular teacher replaced by somebody who spoke no Russian and I was unimpressed at not having any regular classes to teach. Only my 5.40 class was familiar, and it was nice to walk into a room and to recognise most of the faces.
Picture: since I was asked, here's a photo of my toilet. Note the colour of the carpet.
By the end of the day at 10pm I was exhausted. The good news is that the teachers are paid on a daily basis (so no repeat of my Serbian adventure when they managed to dodge paying me for my 7 weeks of “work”), and even better is that Ulan is grateful for the overtime. With the extra class in the evening (from 8.30 – 10pm), my salary for the day was equal to three days of normal work. The bad thing is that at the end of the day all the teachers have to wait to be paid, but of course first Ulan deals with any students that have questions or problems, so it means sitting and waiting for roughly half an hour when all you want to do is go home and collapse into bed.
Next class: Elementary Talking Club. Great. “Hello, what is your name….?” the excitement was killing me, but the pen joke still got a chuckle. This was a harder class to teach: many of the students don’t seem to want to speak English, and it’s a struggle to get them to read the words I write on the board: “My name is…….” While I think to mysekf ‘Come on, say it, just say the word I’m pointing to on the board… hello? Anybody home?’ I remembered something a teacher of mine used to say to some of his pupils many years ago: ‘the lights are on, but nobody’s home.” I can understand what he meant.
I’m not helped by the fact that in Russian you say “My name Igor” (i.e. without ‘is’.) The less intelligent students don’t see the point in using the verb so they simply leave it out.And then another Elementary Talking Club… I did manage to teach one Intermediate class that I’d covered last week, but only three students were there so that was a little odd.
Picture: some of the wall-hangings in the entrance to the school. I'm not sure I teach with love or with courage, and I certainly don't teach people how to fly.
I also had a one-to-one lesson. This was with a charming young lady called Selena: 18 years old, I think, with as much warmth as a stone at the bottom of a pond. As far as I could make out, she had been teaching herself English in addition to what she had learned in school, which meant she had a wide-ranging vocabulary and wide-ranging grammatical mistakes. It’s strange to hear somebody speak English reasonably well and yet with so many very basic errors: the meaning is clear enough but the grammar is appalling. With her warmth and her wit the lesson just flew by: as far as she was concerned her English was nearly good enough to sit the Toefl test and she just needed some extra lessons to refine her knowledge; as far as I was concerned she just needed to suck the blood out of somebody’s neck to revive her personality. She certainly didn't need to be taught how to fly, she could just turn into a bat and fly back to her coffin.
I can’t say I was delighted when I learned I would be teaching her on a daily basis.
Home, lunch, sleep. In the afternoon I had my ‘regular’ classes, or at least my ‘regular’ hours. Ulan sent me to whichever class he thought needed covering. Students were unimpressed at having their regular teacher replaced by somebody who spoke no Russian and I was unimpressed at not having any regular classes to teach. Only my 5.40 class was familiar, and it was nice to walk into a room and to recognise most of the faces.
Picture: since I was asked, here's a photo of my toilet. Note the colour of the carpet.
By the end of the day at 10pm I was exhausted. The good news is that the teachers are paid on a daily basis (so no repeat of my Serbian adventure when they managed to dodge paying me for my 7 weeks of “work”), and even better is that Ulan is grateful for the overtime. With the extra class in the evening (from 8.30 – 10pm), my salary for the day was equal to three days of normal work. The bad thing is that at the end of the day all the teachers have to wait to be paid, but of course first Ulan deals with any students that have questions or problems, so it means sitting and waiting for roughly half an hour when all you want to do is go home and collapse into bed.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
